Istanbul, fish sandwiches

Last week Betsy and I realized a dream that we have had for many years: we went to Istanbul!

Istanbul has always seemed a little off-limits . . . for whatever reasons: the cost off getting there? 9/11? Our own "orientalism"? The sometime savage historical legacy of Ottomans?

Those "off-limits" feelings were reinforced by our acquaintances who told us to "be careful" or "watch yourselves." However, now having been, those fears, limits, and worries have evaporated. Istanbul is an AMAZING place--certainly the most interesting and beautiful tourist destination I have visited as an adult.

First, a reality check. Istanbul is HUGE (population 15 million) and its sprawl straddles the European and Asian shores of the Bosporus Strait for as far as the eye can see. But our experience of Istanbul was limited to the "key sites" and tourist hotels that are confined to a tiny part of the peninsula created by the "Golden Horn." So while we did venture out of our tourist ghetto to take ferries over to the Asian side and up the Bosporus, our understanding of Istanbul is as limited as that of a visitor to New York who limits their excursions to upper Manhattan and, maybe, a boat ride out to the Statue of Liberty.

So that said, rather than give you the blow-by-blow narrative of our stay, I will just show you some pictures and share a few highlights:

1) The Aya Sophia: It deserves ALL the hype. Outside it looks like something the Romans built (they did, but what I mean is that it looks impressively functional, but not necessarily beautiful) But the inside? It soars! It accomplishes that rare feat of being both an awe-inspiring technical marvel (e.g., Hoover Dam) and an aesthetic gem (e.g., Taj Mahal). Betsy and I both agree that we experienced a very rare sense of pure wonder inside that 1500 year-old building. We have both seen some very beautiful cathedrals, canyons, and canvases in our short lives, but this...I've never seen the Pyramids...maybe one would get the same feeling there? (By the way, the Blue Mosque, which is directly opposite the Aya Sophia) is stop-in-your-tracks beautiful, but it doesn't have the same quality of looking "impossible." The sense of impossibility is enhanced when you learn that the Aya Sophia was built in only 5 years!!!!! I mean, there's an apartment building at the end of our street in Somerville that's taking 5 years to build and, well frankly, it just ain't up to snuff.

2) The Hamams ("steam baths"): yes, another total tourist trap but sooo worth it. Sophie and Betsy went to the women's side, I to the men's. You sit in a domed steam room built 500 years ago listening to water drip and the sounds of people getting scrubbed, massaged, and sweating. Then they throw cold water at you! Ahhh.... (sorry, no pictures!)

3) The Sultans’ Topkapi Palace and Harem: We spent almost the whole day touring the beautiful tiled chambers, looking at relics "recovered" from Mecca, goggling at baskets of emeralds, having lunch overlooking the Bosporus, etc. Definitely inspired me to find a "How to set up your own Harem" pamplet . . . Betsy and I are still working out the details . . . .

4) Fish Sandwiches on the Asian shore: one night we took the ferry over to Asia for a dinner of street food and a walk along the shore. As night fell, we sat on a bench and watched a light show being put on in honor of Turkey 's Republic Day. A Turkish family next to us shared their sunflower seeds. We shared our baklava. What could be better?

5) Tour of the Bosporus: for a handful for change you can take a public ferry up the Strait from Istanbul to a ruined citadel the overlooks the Black Sea. On the ferry, the "caj guy" comes by every 1/2 hour with warm tea, baked goods, or yogurt made in one of the local villages. Sophie made friends with a Malaysian family that taught her how to properly wear a head dress. Those of you who remember Sophie's "Pilgrim" stage can imagine how this headscarf episode may turn out to be a mixed blessing).

6) A Nice Hotel: Ok, so we've become soft, sue us. Our little boutique hotel had views of the Bosporus and the Blue Mosque's minarets. Sure, it's designed for tourists, but heck, I am not ashamed to say I LOVED waking up to the sight of huge ships moving back and forth between the Mediterranean and the Black seas. And: it was cheaper than our Dutch "BYOS" (Bring your own squeegee) room. But alas, no chocolate sprinkles for breakfast!

A couple of parting thoughts:
Parting Thought #1: One can't help leaving Istanbul impressed by the weight of history and how important it is for Americans to be thinking about history, particularly in light of the war in Iraq and our elections. Istanbul's location on the Bosporus means that it has and will probably always play an important geo-political role (think of the 500,000 causalities on both sides in the WWI battle of Gallipoli!). As you look out at the Bosporus it is just as easy to imagine Soviet submarines under the water as it is to agree with the Constantine's decision to move the Roman capital here. Europeans will always care who controls this piece of water; Americans probably should, too. The boulevard that runs along the sea from the airport into the city is named after JFK (thanks for the Atlas missiles, big guy!). And yet, it's hard imagining the Turks naming another road after an American president, at least in the near future.

Parting Thought #2: Haggling for prices--if Europeans ever admit Turkey into the EU the institution of haggling will probably go the way of the Fez (still allowed for tourists) and women wearing the head scarf in government in the service of fulfilling Attaturk's dream to turn Turkey into a "modern" country. Yeah, it's kind of fun to haggle, but it is also SOOOO tiring. The line "for you, special price" is both an endearing symbol of the old fashioned, but pure, market system and an annoying insider's taunt. It exhausted us to know that we were probably being suckered every time we pulled out our wallets but still, I suppose it will be sad to see haggling go.

Parting Thought #3: Squat toilets. Just don't like 'em. Especially on boats.

Last thought: (I write this mainly for the family members who have seen Sophie grow):
The Turks seem to LOVE children in a way we have yet to see elsewhere in Europe. Sophie was our ticket to instant friendliness, a quick little discount, or faster service. Of course, after three months in the Czech Republic, it took Sophie a while to get used to the friendly pats on the head and almost constant cheek pinches. But for us, all the affection she received was affirmation for the great love and respect we feel for Sophie. Really, one of my favorite things about this whole year is seeing what a marvel Sophie is. She is an enthusiastic traveller, a curious tourist, and a wonderful companion. Istanbul, more than any of the other places we have visited, demonstrated just how special (and lucky) this little girl is. She is starting to assemble an understanding of history and religion I wish my high school students would develop. We are not blind to how fortunate she is to be able to experience these wonders at such a young age. (I sometimes wonder if we are "spoiling her"...whatever that means) But somehow, with a child who absorbs it all so willingly, who is so respectful in the Mosques, so curious in the museums, so friendly with the strangers, so energetic on the long walks through the winding market streets of Istanbul, so willing to amuse herself on the airplane by putting on a puppet show (a sort of Ottoman Cats!) using crayons, barf bags, and a Turkish Air blanket . . . well, with a kid with that kind of panache . . . it is just a pleasure.